Foot traffic was slow outside the Bay of Pigs Museum on Calle Ocho in
Miami’s Little Havana neighbourhood. A few tourists in T-shirts and shorts bypassed the gallery dedicated to one of the most fateful days in
Cuba’s history and headed instead to nearby Máximo Gómez Park to take photographs of Cuban exiles playing dominoes.This is the street at the heart of the Cuban expat community of more than 1 million people where tens of thousands partied through the night in November 2016 to celebrate the death of
Fidel Castro, and where they gathered in sorrow almost exactly 30 years ago to mourn four Cuban-Americans shot down by the communist country’s air force as they conducted a mission for the humanitarian exile group
Brothers to the Rescue.A man dressed as
Fidel Castro celebrates with other members of the Cuban community in
Miami after Castro’s death in 2016. Photograph: Wilfredo Lee/APThis week, however, the air was more of curiosity and bewilderment at news of a shootout on Wednesday at
Cayo Falcones, barely a mile off
Cuba’s north coast, between the
Cuban coastguard and 10 heavily armed men onboard a speedboat stolen in
Florida.
Cuba’s government said border agents shot back when somebody on the speedboat started firing on them, killing four and wounding six. It said the men were dressed in camouflage and armed with assault rifles, handguns, homemade explosives, ballistic vests and telescopic sights, and in possession of “a significant number of containers bearing the symbols of counter-revolutionary organisations”.“Didn’t we stop doing that years ago?” said Javi González, a second-generation Cuban-American office worker on his coffee break, referring to the ill-fated,
CIA-backed 1961
Bay of Pigs invasion by Cuban paramilitary exiles seeking to overthrow the Castro regime, for which the museum is named.The mystery deepened as family, friends and acquaintances began to confirm the names of those involved (a list provided by Cuban officials on Wednesday night of “terrorists and mercenaries” mistakenly identified at least one person who had been in south
Florida at the time), and a vigil was held in
Miami late on Thursday.A person displays a page with photos of three individuals declared killed in the shootout during a vigil in
Miami. Photograph: Cristóbal Herrera/EPAThe tributes were warm, praising “patriots committed to the cause of freedom”.
José Daniel Ferrer, the prominent Cuban dissident leader freed last year, posted to social media his “respect and admiration for those who died assassinated by the Castro-communist tyranny north of Villa Clara”.But there were few clues as to how the 10, confirmed by the state department on Thursday night to include at least two US citizens, one dead, and a number of permanent residents and visa holders, had come together from various places across
Florida. Or why they had embarked on such a misadventure. Or what they had been hoping to achieve.Map of
Cuba and approximate location of the incidentOne of the four killed was Michel Ortega Casanova, a member of the Casa
Cuba de Tampa expat group and the city’s chapter of the Cuban Republican party. A truck driver, Casanova had been pulled into what his brother Misael told the Associated Press was an “obsessive and diabolical” quest for
Cuba’s freedom.“They became so obsessed that they didn’t think about the consequences, nor their own lives,” he said.Also unknown, so far at least, is who funded their operation. The US secretary of state, Marco Rubio, a son of Cuban immigrants, has insisted the government was not involved and had no knowledge of it, and would be conducting its own inquiry “to figure out exactly what happened” instead of accepting information provided by
Cuba.Guillermo Grenier, a Havana-born professor of sociology and faculty member of the Cuban-American Institute at
Miami’s
Florida International University (FIU), said: “Some people are suggesting the
CIA are involved, but the
CIA doesn’t do this. If they want to be in there they land on an airplane, they’re not sneaking in.”A display shows excerpts of John F Kennedy’s October 1962 televised address about the Cuban missile crisis at the John F Kennedy Library in Boston. Photograph: ReutersGrenier said the
Cayo Falcones endeavour had parallels in the immediate post-Cuban revolution period of the 1960s, when thousands of exiles formed themselves into a commando-style group called Alpha 66 and conducted military training in the
Florida Everglades in readiness to seize back their homeland.It is also reminiscent of more recent, unrealistic “made in
Miami” coup plots, including a fanciful 2019 plan to abduct Venezuela’s leader (which the Trump administration achieved last month), and a 2021 scheme to assassinate Haiti’s leader using Colombian mercenaries.But Grenier said the post-revolution days were long gone. Two decades of FIU polling shows newer generations of Cuban-Americans are increasingly in favour of engagement with their homeland, while the older, hardline exile groups that traditionally backed a forcible overthrow of the Castro regime have struggled to maintain members and interest.“This kind of approach is anachronistic and not serious, to tell you the truth,” Grenier said. “Once upon a time there was an ethos in the community that armed rebellions would get you where you wanted to go. But I think that there’s a sense that any kind of adventurism like this has had its day, and this is not a serious anything.”US policy towards
Cuba has seesawed through successive presidencies, with the current favoured tool to bring about change being a campaign of economic pressure. It was reported on Thursday that US officials talked with the former Cuban president Raúl Castro’s grandson on the sidelines of Caricom, the annual meeting of Caribbean leaders, in St Kitts and Nevis. Late on Friday, Trump confirmed there were conversations between the two governments and even suggested the US could even carry out a “friendly takeover” of
Cuba.In Havana,
Cuba’s vice-minister of foreign affairs and point man on the US, Carlos Fernández de Cossío, told reporters that lines of communication were open with the US government, which had “shown a willingness” to cooperate in clarifying these “regrettable” events.A flower vendor pushes his cart past a mural of the revolutionary leader Che Guevara in Havana this week. Photograph: Yamil Lage/AFP/GettyGrenier said: “They just want this story to go away, ultimately. If it doesn’t get any more complicated, it’s not going to hamper any negotiations, and their chill response shows me that they are really aware of that. They’re hoping it was like 10 crazy folks from Hialeah who decided to go over there and start a little revolution from the inside.”In his statement, de Cossio also said: “
Cuba has been the victim of aggression and countless terrorist acts for over 60 years, mostly organised, financed and carried out from the territory of the US.”It is a position shared by many in Havana. “It’s the same story,” said Hugo Hernandez, an accountant who was walking past the Tribuna Antiimperialista José Martí, the square in front of the US embassy where protests against
Cuba’s neighbour are often held.“It’s been happening since the beginning. When I was young in Santa Clara I had to guard those cays. The coastguards were always worried someone might turn up in a boat and attack them.”