On my drive, I passed the wreckage of a pick-up truck that had been hit by an Israeli air strike a couple of hours earlier. At all times, an Israeli drone flew overhead; occasionally, I could also hear Israeli fighter jets and the sound of explosions in the distance.Life appeared to be on hold. The main street was still decorated for
Ramadan, and almost all houses seemed abandoned. The village was quiet, but not in peace. Near the mosque, I met two cousins,
Fatmeh and
Dunya, both in their 80s. Outside, a banner paid tribute to the late
Hezbollah leader,
Hassan Nasrallah, killed by
Israel in 2024. "We've witnessed many wars. But we've never left,"
Fatmeh said. "Whatever happens we thought we'd die in our homes rather than leave."More than one million people have been displaced across
Lebanon, or one in five of the population, most of them from the south, the eastern
Bekaa Valley, and the southern suburbs of Beirut known as
Dahieh, areas where
Hezbollah holds sway. Many are still living in tents in streets and squares. "They're being humiliated,"
Dunya told me. I asked the pair how they felt with the constant presence of Israeli drones. "I can't lie, I get a bit afraid,"
Fatmeh said. "But then my nerves get steady... We're counting on God."Neha Sharma/BBCTowns and villages, like
Arab Salim, remain deserted as residents are reluctant to returnDown the road,
Hussein Haydar, who was 56, had stayed with his wife, son and one-year-old grandson. "When we hear bombs, we start laughing around him," Haydar told me. "He thinks it's a game when he sees us laughing." A
Hezbollah flag had been put on what was left of the façade of his grocery, destroyed after an Israeli air strike hit the building next door last month. Haydar was slightly wounded in the attack. "The community supports
Hezbollah because they're defending us," he said. "They're the only ones keeping us on our land."While we met, the Israeli military issued evacuation warnings for three villages nearby, often an indication that an attack is imminent. I left shortly afterwards. The air strikes came about half an hour later.Neha Sharma/BBCIsraeli strikes have damaged or destroyed countless buildings across southern LebanonHezbollah, or Party of God in Arabic, was created in the 1980s during
Israel's occupation of
Lebanon in the Lebanese civil war. From its beginning, the group has been financed, trained and armed by
Iran, and the destruction of
Israel remains one of its official goals. The latest escalation in their conflict started when
Hezbollah fired rockets into
Israel on 2 March, following the killing of the Iranian supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, as the US and
Israel launched a war on
Iran.
Israel responded with widespread air strikes across
Lebanon and another invasion of the country's south.On 16 April, US President Donald Trump announced a ceasefire between
Israel and
Lebanon.
Hezbollah, which is designated as a terrorist organisation by countries including the US and the UK, was not officially involved, but indicated it would abide by the deal if it was observed by
Israel. The respite was short lived. Within days,
Israel resumed its air strikes, mainly in the south, accusing
Hezbollah of violations.
Hezbollah, then, returned to its attacks on
Israel and against Israeli troops in
Lebanon.Since the start of the war, at least 2,800 people have been killed in
Lebanon, according to the country's health ministry, more than 400 of them after truce came into force. (The ministry does not distinguish combatants from civilians.) Israeli authorities say 18 soldiers and four civilians have been killed in the war.Neha Sharma/BBCIsrael's military occupies about 5% of
Lebanon's territory, where Israeli officials say the aim is to create what they describe as a security buffer zoneThe strip of land occupied by
Israel in southern
Lebanon constitutes around 5% of the country's territory and, in some places, extends 10km (six miles) from the border. There, as it did in Gaza,
Israel has flattened entire villages with air strikes and demolitions.
Israel's military says the buildings have been used by
Hezbollah; human rights groups say the deliberate destruction of civilian infrastructure could be a war crime.The authorities in
Israel say the goal is to create what they describe as a security zone along the border,
Hezbollah-free, to protect the country's northern communities from the group's rockets and drones and a possible ground invasion. Last year, the Israeli military said
Hezbollah had developed a plan called "Conquer the Galilee" that included a large-scale cross-border attack like the one carried out by Hamas on southern
Israel on 7 October 2023, which led to
Israel's devastating response in Gaza.I visited a checkpoint of the Lebanese military near the occupied town of Khiam (
Lebanon's national army is not a party to the conflict). The road had been blocked with a large garbage container and tyres. Half-a-dozen soldiers were positioned a little farther behind, next to an abandoned petrol station. As I walked towards the barrier, one of them stopped me. Israeli troops, he said, were in houses at the top of the hill that overlooked their base and had frequently fired in their direction. He warned me they could fire again if I got closer. I turned back.Neha Sharma/BBCPosters in Tyre remember slain fighters and the late
Hezbollah leader,
Hassan Nasrallah, killed by
Israel in 2024Weakened,
Hezbollah is isolated domestically, and the Lebanese President, Joseph Aoun, has vowed to disarm it.
Hezbollah's arsenal has long divided this country but the group's leader, Naim Qassem, rejects giving up its weapons. Aoun, a former army chief, says this cannot be done by force, warning of the risks of alienating the Shia community and exacerbating tensions in a country divided by sects.Opponents accuse
Hezbollah of dragging
Lebanon into unwanted wars and of defending the interests of
Iran - the group is part of a regional alliance Tehran calls the "Axis of Resistance".
Hezbollah supporters say the group is their only protection against
Israel, which they see as an enemy intent on capturing Lebanese land. But even some of them were against the decision to attack
Israel after Khamenei's killing. (Open criticism is still rare but, last year, I met some supporters who appeared to be questioning some long-held views.)In
Lebanon, however,
Hezbollah is more than a militia. It is also a political party represented in parliament and in the government, and a social movement that runs services including schools and hospitals in areas where the state has been absent. For a community historically marginalised, the group is an essential part in their lives and identity.I drove to the coastal city of Tyre, the largest in the south and one of the world's oldest.
Hezbollah flags - bright yellow, with a hand holding an assault rifle in the centre - lined the main road. Next to a roundabout, a field had become a makeshift cemetery for fighters. Pictures of men in uniform remembered those who had been killed while the open graves waited for the losses to come.Neha Sharma/BBCLebanon's health ministry says around 400 people have been killed since the ceasefire came into forceIn the city centre, near the Mediterranean waterfront, I met a man called Rida Hijazi as a bulldozer removed broken concrete and twisted metal from collapsed buildings. As a child, Hijazi lived in Tyre under Israeli occupation; at 52, he has seen it being attacked by
Israel in the conflicts of 2006, the one that started in 2023, and this year. "These wars have affected us deeply," Hijazi said. "We were people who had money. Now, we've fallen below zero."A massive Israeli bombardment, minutes before the ceasefire was due to start, destroyed his house and business, and killed his brother and a dozen of his neighbours. All civilians, he said. (The Israeli military said it had no comment.) "We've always supported
Hezbollah because I grew up in this environment and saw things for myself. They were created to defend the land. Who is
Hezbollah? It's me, you, and her," Hijazi told me, pointing to my colleague.Polls suggest most Lebanese want
Hezbollah to disarm, but Hijazi told me the group, for now, could not lay down its arms. "As long as
Lebanon is under occupation or under threat," he said, "we can't trust anyone."